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Hyderabad: Old world charm with a breath of fresh air
Afifa Jabeen Quraishi
Wednesday 9 January 2013
In a report on the top 10 world cities to visit in 2013, CNN said the list contained "a few eyebrow-raisers". Hyderabad ranked third, perhaps implying the eyebrow-raiser was indeed the Indian city of South Asia that was once a "filthy-rich princely state," as dubbed by travel guide book Lonely Planet, which originally drew up the list. However, for those of us who are familiar with the charms of the city, this recognition is anything but an eyebrow-raiser. Thanks to Hyderabad's rich and elegant culture, architectural marvels, wonderful food and value for money.
The city of Hyderabad has always got much tourist attention, thanks to its forts, food and pearls, among other touristic allures. Now a fast track implementation of service sector projects, the development of infrastructure, a relatively new world-class airport that repeatedly ranked among the top airports of the world, and after hosting the UN biodiversity conference in October last year, Hyderabad has shot into global attention like never before.
It will also play host to the United Nations World Tourism Organization (UNWTO) meet in April, in which over 30 countries are expected to take part.
The city could soon have its very own Hyderabad Eye at its iconic Hussain Sagar Lake and a Madame Tussauds wax museum. These projects received a nod from London's Mayor Boris Johnson, who on his November visit to the city expressed an interest in exploring investment opportunities and providing technical support to Hyderabad's tourism plans.
Modeled on the London Eye, the Hyderabad Eye is expected to get its own mechanized giant wheel offering a panoramic view of the city's landscape and one that will have a dining facility too. What's more, a floating restaurant will be set up aboard a boat that will cruise along the lake.
While the city is replete with usual touristic 'suspects,' Arab News explores some of the undiscovered, off-the-radar spots in Hyderabad's Old City, some that have been refurbished and others that are being fixed to blossom into bustling sightseeing hubs. From Falaknuma Palace, once the private preserve of the city's Nizam rulers and now a seven-star hotel, to sundry small tea and coffee shops lining the Old City's streets, where Hyderabad's quintessential culture comes alive. This is one city that can enchant both the prince and the pauper.
The Charminar of Hyderabad
Don't blame me if I, like every other travel guides on Hyderabad, begin with exhorting a trip to Charminar. Because while in Old City, it is just not fair to not experience the might and the aura surrounding the 16th century dated Charminar (which translates into 'a mosque of four minarets'). The structure is synonymous with the identity of every Hyderabadi, and is the delight of the Lad Bazaar bordering it. From Hyderabad's special lac bangles to clothes, jewelry, perfumes, bridal accessories to furniture and copies of decorated Qur'an, it is indeed a shopper's paradise. It is said that it takes a person almost two days to visit every store in the market, which was the main shopping area during the reign of the erstwhile Nizam rulers.
Don't blame me if I, like every other travel guides on Hyderabad, begin with exhorting a trip to Charminar. Because while in Old City, it is just not fair to not experience the might and the aura surrounding the 16th century dated Charminar (which translates into 'a mosque of four minarets'). The structure is synonymous with the identity of every Hyderabadi, and is the delight of the Lad Bazaar bordering it. From Hyderabad's special lac bangles to clothes, jewelry, perfumes, bridal accessories to furniture and copies of decorated Qur'an, it is indeed a shopper's paradise. It is said that it takes a person almost two days to visit every store in the market, which was the main shopping area during the reign of the erstwhile Nizam rulers.
Chowmahalla: A royal retreat
At walking distance from Charminar, stands the magnificent Chowmahalla Palace. Chow means four and Mahal means palace. ChowMahalla therefore means four palaces.
The Chowmahalla complex is said to be a replica of the Shah's Palace in Tehran, Iran. Its highlights are two courtyards with elegant palaces and the grand Khilwat (the Darbar hall or a king's open court).
Today the royal courtyard hosts concerts and programs in its vast, lush green lawns, amid picturesque water tanks and fountains.
Only last month Chowmahalla palace opened a one of a kind heritage library comprising 10,000 books from the personal collection of the Asaf Jahi Nizams. Reading in a vintage setting, complete with portraits of Nizams on the library walls makes for any booklover's delight.
The massive collection of books and manuscripts that were lying scattered at various locations before being gathered at the library predominantly belonged to Nizam Mir Mahboob Ali Khan, the seventh and the last Nizam Mir Osman Ali Khan and the current titular Nizam Mukarram Jah.
The books have been catalogued according to the Library of Congress, US, and boost of a wealth of information on subjects such as history, geography, literature, law, medicine, biographies, poetry, Islamic culture, rare manuscripts in Persian, Urdu, Arabic and English. What stands out is a rare collection of Qur'anic copies inscribed in different calligraphic fonts; something Osman Ali Khan loved to receive as gifts on his birthdays.
Khan was a poet who used to send his poetry to Urdu newspapers that would publish the contributions on their front pages. Khan, despite leading a simple life, was described as the richest man in the world by Time magazine in 1937. He donated generously to several causes in India as well as abroad, irrespective of caste and religion. Hyderabad under his rule witnessed many cultural, economic, administrative and educational reforms. It is said that up to 11 percent of the state's budget was allocated for education. He set up many schools, colleges, universities including the historic Osmania University. Khan made primary schooling compulsory and provided free-of-cost education to the weaker sections of society. He is also said to be behind the building of some of the most notable landmarks in Hyderabad, namely, Osmania General Hospital, Andhra Pradesh High Court, Asafiya Library (State Central Library), Town Hall (Assembly Hall), Jubilee Hall, Hyderabad Museum (State Museum), as well as the Hyderabad House in New Delhi. Each of these structures are an architect's dream.
At walking distance from Charminar, stands the magnificent Chowmahalla Palace. Chow means four and Mahal means palace. ChowMahalla therefore means four palaces.
The Chowmahalla complex is said to be a replica of the Shah's Palace in Tehran, Iran. Its highlights are two courtyards with elegant palaces and the grand Khilwat (the Darbar hall or a king's open court).
Today the royal courtyard hosts concerts and programs in its vast, lush green lawns, amid picturesque water tanks and fountains.
Only last month Chowmahalla palace opened a one of a kind heritage library comprising 10,000 books from the personal collection of the Asaf Jahi Nizams. Reading in a vintage setting, complete with portraits of Nizams on the library walls makes for any booklover's delight.
The massive collection of books and manuscripts that were lying scattered at various locations before being gathered at the library predominantly belonged to Nizam Mir Mahboob Ali Khan, the seventh and the last Nizam Mir Osman Ali Khan and the current titular Nizam Mukarram Jah.
The books have been catalogued according to the Library of Congress, US, and boost of a wealth of information on subjects such as history, geography, literature, law, medicine, biographies, poetry, Islamic culture, rare manuscripts in Persian, Urdu, Arabic and English. What stands out is a rare collection of Qur'anic copies inscribed in different calligraphic fonts; something Osman Ali Khan loved to receive as gifts on his birthdays.
Khan was a poet who used to send his poetry to Urdu newspapers that would publish the contributions on their front pages. Khan, despite leading a simple life, was described as the richest man in the world by Time magazine in 1937. He donated generously to several causes in India as well as abroad, irrespective of caste and religion. Hyderabad under his rule witnessed many cultural, economic, administrative and educational reforms. It is said that up to 11 percent of the state's budget was allocated for education. He set up many schools, colleges, universities including the historic Osmania University. Khan made primary schooling compulsory and provided free-of-cost education to the weaker sections of society. He is also said to be behind the building of some of the most notable landmarks in Hyderabad, namely, Osmania General Hospital, Andhra Pradesh High Court, Asafiya Library (State Central Library), Town Hall (Assembly Hall), Jubilee Hall, Hyderabad Museum (State Museum), as well as the Hyderabad House in New Delhi. Each of these structures are an architect's dream.
Nizam's Museum: A peek into luxury
The Nizam's Museum located at Purani Haveli (Old Palace) in the Old City, for instance, gives one more than a glimpse of the lavish lifestyle the one-time rulers of Hyderabad lived. Be it the 144-cupboard wardrobe belonging to the sixth Nizam Mir Mahboob Ali Khan or an address book, a tiffin (light meal) box, and miscellaneous toys, all made in pure gold and encrusted with diamonds, rubies and sapphires, each artifact here merits a museum of its own. This palace, before it was gifted to the third Nizam, belonged to the then Prime Minister of Hyderabad Aristu Jah.
The Nizam's Museum located at Purani Haveli (Old Palace) in the Old City, for instance, gives one more than a glimpse of the lavish lifestyle the one-time rulers of Hyderabad lived. Be it the 144-cupboard wardrobe belonging to the sixth Nizam Mir Mahboob Ali Khan or an address book, a tiffin (light meal) box, and miscellaneous toys, all made in pure gold and encrusted with diamonds, rubies and sapphires, each artifact here merits a museum of its own. This palace, before it was gifted to the third Nizam, belonged to the then Prime Minister of Hyderabad Aristu Jah.
MJ Market: Best ice cream and biscuits in town
The Moazzam Jahi Market, with its regal architecture and an elaborate clock tower is hard to miss. Extending over 7,000 square meters, it is home to 120 shops selling flowers, fruits and 'athar' (perfume). What most interests visitors and locals alike though are the quirky ice cream shops here, such as Famous, Gafoor and Shah. They all specialize in delicious, freshly made natural ice creams. Popular flavors comprise sapodilla plum, custard apple, mango and fig. Prices are incredibly low. At Rs 10 (SR 0.68) a plate, this is one treat that is light on both the stomach and the pocket.
The market is also home to the famous Karachi Bakery. Suffice to say that this bakery is to Hyderabad what Al-Baik is to Jeddah. It is jam-packed at any hour of the day as it sells freshly baked dil khush, a sweet triangular pie, and fruit biscuits, whose popularity has undeniably reached the four corners of the globe.
Built in 1935, MJ market was named after Mir Osman Ali Khan's second son, Nawab Moazzam Jah Bhadur.
Plans to restore MJ market are in cards. However, the once magnificent granite structure of the edifice, which is listed as a grade II heritage building, has been on the receiving end of the vagaries of nature and poor maintenance.
"NGOs are not particularly interested in such work because it lacks political connections and power. The Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH) and others like me make a huge noise about heritage and got the government's attention," said Ghiasuddin Akbar, a member of the Historical Society of Hyderabad and Salar Jung Museum.
He said places of historical significance, such as Deodhi Iqbal-ud Dawla, a private property, do not attract funds for restoration. "The Sard Mahal (Summer House) for which water used to be channeled from Mir Alam Tank upon the aquaduct is in ruins. Not even the tourism department was aware of this until we organized a heritage walk for the officials," said Akbar.
"The Chowmahalla palaces are being restored by one of the wives of the current titular Nizam of Hyderabad Prince Mukarram Jah. It is being given a facelift because it is now generating income for the family when rented out for cultural programs and ghazal evenings to corporate offices."
The Moazzam Jahi Market, with its regal architecture and an elaborate clock tower is hard to miss. Extending over 7,000 square meters, it is home to 120 shops selling flowers, fruits and 'athar' (perfume). What most interests visitors and locals alike though are the quirky ice cream shops here, such as Famous, Gafoor and Shah. They all specialize in delicious, freshly made natural ice creams. Popular flavors comprise sapodilla plum, custard apple, mango and fig. Prices are incredibly low. At Rs 10 (SR 0.68) a plate, this is one treat that is light on both the stomach and the pocket.
The market is also home to the famous Karachi Bakery. Suffice to say that this bakery is to Hyderabad what Al-Baik is to Jeddah. It is jam-packed at any hour of the day as it sells freshly baked dil khush, a sweet triangular pie, and fruit biscuits, whose popularity has undeniably reached the four corners of the globe.
Built in 1935, MJ market was named after Mir Osman Ali Khan's second son, Nawab Moazzam Jah Bhadur.
Plans to restore MJ market are in cards. However, the once magnificent granite structure of the edifice, which is listed as a grade II heritage building, has been on the receiving end of the vagaries of nature and poor maintenance.
"NGOs are not particularly interested in such work because it lacks political connections and power. The Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH) and others like me make a huge noise about heritage and got the government's attention," said Ghiasuddin Akbar, a member of the Historical Society of Hyderabad and Salar Jung Museum.
He said places of historical significance, such as Deodhi Iqbal-ud Dawla, a private property, do not attract funds for restoration. "The Sard Mahal (Summer House) for which water used to be channeled from Mir Alam Tank upon the aquaduct is in ruins. Not even the tourism department was aware of this until we organized a heritage walk for the officials," said Akbar.
"The Chowmahalla palaces are being restored by one of the wives of the current titular Nizam of Hyderabad Prince Mukarram Jah. It is being given a facelift because it is now generating income for the family when rented out for cultural programs and ghazal evenings to corporate offices."
Muskh Mahal
Among some lesser explored Old City locales, Akbar, an avid promoter of heritage and culture of Deccan India and its history, suggests the Mushk Mahal Sarai: "Legend has it that the then King of Iran (Persia) had sent forty camels loaded with musk to the last Qutub Shahi ruler, Tana Shah, as a gift. Shah, being sensitive in nature and given to allergic bouts of sneezing, thought it best to bury the musk in the basement of the Sarai at Atapur. This small Sarai is found before one enters the fort. It is said that the soil absorbed the fragrance and for years the ground used to smell of musk."
Among some lesser explored Old City locales, Akbar, an avid promoter of heritage and culture of Deccan India and its history, suggests the Mushk Mahal Sarai: "Legend has it that the then King of Iran (Persia) had sent forty camels loaded with musk to the last Qutub Shahi ruler, Tana Shah, as a gift. Shah, being sensitive in nature and given to allergic bouts of sneezing, thought it best to bury the musk in the basement of the Sarai at Atapur. This small Sarai is found before one enters the fort. It is said that the soil absorbed the fragrance and for years the ground used to smell of musk."
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